COZUMEL
The Island of Cozumel lies 11 miles east of the northern coast of the
Yucatan Peninsula.
With rapid ferry service out of adjacent Playa del Carmen, 45 miles south of Cancun,
the trip over takes 40 minutes. Life on the this 30-mile long by 10-mile
wide Island is relaxed, somewhat akin to a ski resort, only the climate is
tropical and the sport is scuba diving. Once a Mayan religious center, it
is now a popular stopover for Caribbean cruise ships.
The Isla de las Golondrinas (Island of Swallows), now called Cozumel,
is also known as “The Guardian of the Caribbean.” It was originally called
Cuzamil (“the place of swallows” in the Maya language). Sparkling like an
emerald set in a turquoise sea, it rises up imposingly on the horizon and
is ringed by stunning coral reefs that make it one of the world’s most
famous dive sites. The abundance of reefs (one is the world’s second
largest), plus the transparency of the Caribbean, allows visibility of up
to 200 feet, and the water’s year-round warm temperature (77 to 82
degrees), make it a diver’s dream. During World War II, the U.S. built an
air base on Cozumel for planes hunting U-boats in the mid-Atlantic. Drawn
by the clear waters, frogmen came to train and returned home with stories
of magnificent underwater vistas. After a visit to the island in 1962,
oceanographer Jacques Cousteau proclaimed Cozumel one of the finest diving
sites in the world. And so Cozumel came before the eyes of the world!
Strength, energy and light radiate from what was once the home of the
Mayan goddess of fertility, Ixchel (who was worshipped here), as well as
the conquistadores who discovered it in 1518, and later the pirates who
sought to exploit the jungle. This is where Europeans first stepped foot
on Mexican soil, and a plaque on the beach marks the spot where Catholic
mass was first celebrated in Mexico. But the Spanish explorers didn’t
stay; fresh water was in short supply and the mainland natives were
hostile, so they pushed on to other places in their search for El Dorado,
the mythical city of gold. The island was largely forgotten, except by the
pirates!
Only the mainland side of the island is settled, with a small hotel
zone to the north and a larger one to the south. The only island village,
San Miguel, lies between the two. Its Avenida Rafael Melgar lies along the
waterfront and it and the streets radiating away from the central plaza
are lined with casual, colorful restaurants, bars and shops.
The Cozumel Island Museum is located on the waterfront near the pier,
its various salons relating the island’s history as well as its ecology,
with displays of mysterious Mayan artifacts, fascinating relics from the
early days of deep-sea diving, and beautiful underwater fossils. It has a
casual and popular terrace café with one of the best views around.
English-speaking guides are available.
The island’s most famous site, Chankanaab Park, lies about six miles
south of the village of San Miguel. Here, a lagoon teeming with tropical
fish resembles a gigantic natural aquarium with water so clear the fish
can be seen and admired from the water’s edge. Connected to the sea by
underground channels (that are off limits to the public), the lagoon has a
lovely reef just offshore, where scuba divers and snorkelers can view the
coral, sunken canon and anchors. The Park’s newest attraction is Dolphin
Discovery, an outdoor facility where visitors can swim with the curious
creatures. Another major attraction at Chankanaab are the botanical
gardens, home to over 200 species of tropical and sub-tropical plants
brought from all over the world, as well as some native iguanas. The
gardens include an outdoor, life-size display featuring a typical Mayan
home. It also has a fine beach for swimming and sunning. On-site dive
shops rent equipment, and offer guides and instruction. Thatched-roof
restaurants serve excellent food and drinks, including Mexican
specialties, in a casual setting with the beautiful marimba music of
Yucatan as a sound backdrop.
The southern tip of the island, Punta Celarain, is home to a
picturesque lighthouse offering a grand view of island and sea—that is, if
you can tackle the more than 100 steps to the top! There’s also a Mayan
temple in this area. Once past this point, you’ll be heading north again,
up the eastern shore towards El Mirador, a natural rock formation that’s a
wonderful lookout--which is what the name means in Spanish!
The island boasts 25 archeological sites, some still hidden from the
eyes of the world and therefore difficult to reach. The most interesting
and easily accessible, via the cross-island road, is San Gervasio, which
is also an excellent site for bird-watching. Another popular and
frequently visited archeological site is El Cedral; its history is
described in the Cozumel Island Museum.
Boat trips, some of which offer a picnic on one of the island’s remote
beaches, are a favorite pastime. The outing lasts a full day. The annual
springtime Billfish Tournament attracts sportsmen from all over, but just
about any month is good for going after white marlin, bluefin tuna or
sailfish. Mackeral and grouper can be caught in abundance. Mexico’s diving
capital is expanding to include golf, too, with the opening of an 18-hole
Jack Nicklaus signature golf course, clubhouse and botanical gardens at
the Cozumel Country Club. Another new attraction is the recently opened
beachside wildlife park, Punta Sur, which has a snorkeling center and
marine turtle observation center.
You can even horseback ride here!
Cozumel is a picturesque Caribbean island where you can still get lost
in the sands of time. It offers visitors warm hospitality, an abundance of
marine life, impressive reefs and the legacy of its early inhabitants. If
it’s your first trip, you must take a drive around the island that is
Mexico’s original Caribbean playground; the 35-mile excursion along the
road that hugs the coastline of this largely jungle-covered island can be
done on a moped, dune buggy, jeep or taxi. It’s your choice!
|
