Uruapan
West of Morelia and Patzcuaro lies
the town of Uruapan, which translates roughly as “place where the flowers
bloom.” The name of this exotic town hints at the beautiful and lush vegetation
that surround it. And of course such a lush growing environment produces some of
Mexico’s most delectable produce, such as high quality avocados and other
luscious fruits. It was founded early in the colonial era, after the Aztec
Empire had collapsed and the Spanish sent expeditions to every part of Mexico.
One expedition was headed by the Franciscan friar Juan de San Miguel, who went
into the mountainous region inhabited by the Tarascans and selected a spot he
believed to be the most beautiful in New Spain. In 1532 the settlement of San
Francisco Uruapan was founded. With its cobblestone streets, attractive homes
and buildings and flower-filled plazas, its verdant beauty has fascinated
visitors for years.
Flowers and agriculture aren’t
Uruapan’s only claim to fame: The craftspeople are renowned for their
hand-painted lacquerware (“lacas”)—wooden trays, chests and gourds of
exquisite and intricate design. Many downtown stores sell hand-spun manta,
the bright colorful cotton seen all over Mexico. Uruapan also has a beautiful
national park, the Parque Nacional Eduardo Ruiz, situated on the
outskirts but only a five-minute drive from the main plaza. Here is the source
of the Cupatizio River, said to be one of the most beautiful in the world. The
130-foot Tzararacua Falls are located downstream, surrounded by thick green
vegetation and sporting an almost perpetual rainbow visible in the mist formed
by the cascading water. Stairs lead down to the bottom of the waterfall, but you
can also descend on horseback.
About 22 miles northwest is the
town of Angahuan, from where one can visit the unique lava field originating
from the 8,400-foot Paricutin Volcano, the only volcano born in modern times,
which first erupted in a cornfield back in 1943, much to the surprise of local
peasants. Over the following eight years, it covered 40 square kilometers with
hot lava, before finally dying. But it destroyed the town of San Juan
Parangaricutiro, and 4,000 people were forced to flee their homes; still visible
is the village’s beautiful 16th
century church spire, built of carved cantera stone, protruding from the
lava bed.
Short side trips from the city
include the archeological ruins from the Purepecha empire at Tingambato, located
20 minutes from Uruapan on the highway to Patzcuaro, or the guitar-making town
of Paracho, or to buy beautiful hand embroidery and lacework in the town of
Aranza, or incredible hand-carved pillars in Ahuiran, or indigenous woodwork
items in other towns, such as Aranza, Cheran, Pichataro, Charapan, to name just
a few. The town of Zirahuen Lake sports many of the small traditional wooden
houses of Michoacan, called trojes, and is a good place to dine on fresh trout,
white fish and charales, the tiny delicacy of the region.
The city of Uruapan itself is made
up of three joined plazas—El Jardin Morelos, La Pergola Municipal and El Jardin
de los Martires de Uruapan—and at each end of town there’s a picturesque
colonial church. Its setting amidst lush and beautiful scenery, its world-famous
laquerware crafts, delectable and lush fruits and proximity to the wonders of
nature all combine to make Uruapan a very special place to visit.
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