San Miguel de Allende

A colonial center for the arts, located in the State of Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende is a cosmopolitan town in a colonial setting, so strikingly lovely in its architecture that it’s been designated a national monument. Of all Mexico’s colonial cities, few would disagree that San Miguel de Allende is one of the prettiest. With its tree-shaded plaza, dominated by an unusual neo-Gothic church, it’s a touch of the Left Bank. And its many beautifully restored colonial homes house delightful small hotels, excellent little restaurants and fine shops. In addition to the visitors who come to enjoy the town’s beauty, climate and colorful fiestas, students of all ages come to study art, painting, weaving, sculpting, photography and Spanish. All this makes the city a fascinating place to spend a few hours, a few days or a few weeks. There is no other place in Mexico quite like it!

Let your first view of this placid highlands town be from the hilltop of El Mirador, where a panorama of shimmering church domes surrounded by pastel-painted buildings meets the eye—all of it framed against the backdrop of the surrounding Sierra Madre mountains. On entering the town itself, head for the Plaza Allende, the town’s main square, to soak up the European flavor of its manicured trees, wrought-iron benches and gilded bandshell. Along the narrow cobblestone streets surrounding the Plaza are an abundance of cafes, galleries, shops and small hotels that now occupy the centuries-old buildings. Behind many of the huge wooden doorways that line these colorful streets can be glimpsed beautiful private homes with gorgeous interior courtyards graced by fountains and gardens. These hidden courtyards are part of San Miguel’s secret charm, and thankfully many residents open their homes to tours which take place each Sunday.

It’s only natural that artists have long been attracted to San Miguel’s timeless beauty, and the town has become quite an important artist’s colony in recent years, where a fairly large community of North American writers and painters live year-round. Cultural activities flourish and the café scene is lively. There are several excellent art schools located here, the most notable of which is the Instituto de Bellas Artes (Institute of Fine Arts); it’s housed in an old convent.

Here are some of San Miguel’s most fascinating attractions:

Jardin Principal (Main Garden or town square): This is San Miguel’s most popular meeting place; it’s surrounded by beautiful buildings, some with archways dating back to the 17th century.

La Parroquia (Parrish Church): Originally built in 1683, it has undergone various changes over the years. Its neogothic façade, built in 1890 by local stone-mason Zeferino Gutierrez, is the outstanding landmark in the town.

Presidencia Municipal (Mayor’s Office): Built in 1736, it contains a fine painting depicting the creation of the first city council in independent Mexico, on September 17, 1810.

Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez, “El Nigromante” (National Institute of Fine Arts): Housed in the ex-convent of the Conceptionist nuns, this cultural center today is a beautiful place where painting, drawing, sculpture, music, ballet, and other fine arts are offered.

Templo de la Concepcion (Church of the Conception): Inside the church are masterpieces painted by artist Rodriguez Juarez.

Teatro Angela Peralta (Theater): Inaugurated on May 20, 1873, its opening performance was that of famed opera singer Angela Peralta.

Biblioteca Publica (Public Library): This beautiful colonial building contains Mexico’s second-largest English library.

Oratorio de San Felipe Neri (St. Phillip Neri’s Oratory): Constructed at the beginning of the 17th century, this church houses paintings by Cabrera as well as beautiful neoclassic altars.

Santa Casa de Loreto (Loreto Chapel): Built in the 18th century, a reproduction of its namesake in Italy, its façade is baroque.

Templo de Nuestra Senora de la Salud (Church of Our Lady of Health): The construction of this church dates back to the 18th century, and its façade is churriqueresque in style.

Plaza Civica (Civic Plaza): This plaza is used for civic purposes and was built in honor of General Ignacio Allende y Unzaga.

Iglesia de San Francisco (Church of St. Francis): The construction of this beautiful church began in 1779. The façade is churriqueresque in style, and its neoclassic interior contains paintings depicting the death of St. Francis.

Casa del Inquisitor (Inquisitor’s House): A small and beautiful 18th century house (1780) with a façade that denotes a marked French influence.

Instituto Allende (Allende Institute): An impressive stone building built in 1735, it was once used as a weekend retreat by Count Tomas de la Canal. It is now a language school of international renown.

Paseo del Chorro (The Water Spring): This is the unique park where San Miguel originated. The spring was discovered in the 16th century and is now a colorful public bathing area.
Santuario de Atotonilco (Sanctuary of Atotonilco): Located only 10 minutes drive from San Miguel, on the road to Dolores Hidalgo, this extraordinary church has been a place of pilgrimage since colonial times. It was from here that Father Hidalgo removed the banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe and used it as the standard for the insurgent cause against the Spanish. Its surprising interior is a mixture of Christian and secular themes.

The artistic character of the town, combined with the provincial atmosphere of everyday Mexican village life—perhaps best experienced in its markets, plazas, church ceremonies and seasonal fiestas—give San Miguel de Allende a unique personality among the colonial cities. Its special magic makes it one of the most popular places to visit in all of Mexico.