Morelia
A stately city that reflects a
visible pride in its long and illustrious heritage, Morelia is the capital of
the State of Michoacan—an area considered by many Mexicans as their most scenic
state—and the aristrocrat of colonial cities. A drive to Morelia will take you
through landscapes of mountain forest, past rivers and lakes, under towering
volcanoes and through rustic villages. Enter the city itself and you encounter
an impressive place of pink stone buildings, an ancient Spanish aqueduct that
winds into the city, sculpted gardens and graceful arcades and colonnades that
front on its lovely main square, Plaza de los Martires (Plaza of the
Martyrs), which is the focal point of town life and a good place to start
sightseeing. It’s flanked on one side by the pink-stoned cathedral with its twin
towers 200 feet high. It took more than 200 years to build and is one of the
most beautiful in the country. The most impressive architectural landmark in
Morelia is its massive colonial aqueduct. Built in 1790 to carry water into the
city from nearby springs, it has more than 250 arches, some of them 30 feet
high. It ends at Plaza Villalongin, with its large fountain adorned by
statues of handsome Tarascan women holding aloft baskets of fruits and
vegetables.
 Originally called Valladolid,
after the Spanish city of the same name, the city’s name was changed to Morelia
in honor of a local hero, Jose Maria Morelos, after Mexico’s War of
Independence. History buffs will want to visit his former home, now a museum.
The city was founded in 1541 by Mexico’s first viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza,
whose palace, built in 1544, stands at the city center and is still used as a
hotel! However, the city’s heritage extends far beyond the days of Spanish
conquest, for the region was long the ancestral home of the Tarascan Indians,
who had cultivated the peaceful arts for hundreds of years before the Spaniards
arrived. It is still regarded as one of the richest folk art centers in Mexico,
and traditional Tarascan crafts from neighboring villages can be found
throughout the city. The pottery, wood carving and laquerware made by the local
people are highly prized by collectors. In this regard, the State Museum in
Morelia is a must-see, as it houses an excellent collection of archeological
artifacts from the region; it was once the home of emperor Agustin de Iturbide
and includes a complete Morelian pharmacy dating from 1868. The Michoacan Museum
houses a collection of archeological artifacts and art, including Federico
Cantu’s impressive mural of the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse. At Morelos
Norte 485 is the Casa de la Cultura, one of the oldest and most
impressive structures in the city. It contains an interesting Mask Museum with
examples from many regions of Mexico.
 The Orchid Garden at the
Convention Center boasts a collection of 4,000 plants and is open 365 days a
year. The annual State Fair is held in Morelia from April 29 to May 20; one of
its highlights is the organ festival featuring international artists. And as
long as you’re in Michoacan between late November and early March, be sure to
visit the monarch butterfly refuge near Angangueo (near Zitacuaro, about two
hours from Morelia). Every autumn, millions of black-and-orange beauties fly
some 2,200 miles from southern Canada and the northern U.S. to a tiny niche of
mountains in the States of Michoacan and Mexico. Once there, they roost in the
high, cool trees of the fir forest to spend the winter months before heading
north again in the spring. Angang
 One of the most vividly colonial
cities in Mexico, Morelia also provides a gateway to experiences of pre-colonial
culture over a thousand years old. Be prepared to linger when you visit, for the
history and natural beauty of Morelia and the State of Michoacan are hard to
resist.
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