Merida
Built more than 450 years ago on
the site of T’ho, an ancient Mayan city, Merida is the social and economic
center, as well as the capital, of the State of Yucatan. “The White City,” as
it’s often called, probably derives its nickname from the white-trimmed facades
of its Spanish colonial architecture, although the name could have easily
derived from the traditional local dress—the pleated white guayabera shirt worn
by men, and the lacy white huipil dress worn by women. This fascinating inland
city of approximately 700,000 people is full of charm, with its colorful
calandrias (horse-drawn carriages), which take you through the narrow
streets—all numbered, no names!—for a leisurely view of many interesting places
that you’ll want to explore more fully at a later time.
 Founded in 1542 by Francisco de
Montejo, Merida and all of the Yucatan remained virtually isolated until
mid-20th century. Trade and commerce, based on the profitable henequen (or
sisal) industry, were long directed toward the U.S., Cuba and Europe. Wealthy
Yucatecos were far more likely to visit Havana or Paris than Mexico City. Rope
products are still produced here from the fiber of the ubiquitous henequen
plant, but the advent of petroleum-derived nylon effectively wiped out the sisal
industry in Yucatan. Sisal, a tiny coastal village, gave its name to the fiber
used to make everything from floor mats and hammocks to industrial cording and
sacks.
You’ll be treated warmly by the
friendly, handsome people of Merida, who often bear the features of their long
Mayan ancestry, easily recognizable by their almond-shaped eyes, high cheek
bones and very straight hair. Be sure to spend time in the tree-shaded Zocalo
(main square), called the Plaza de la Independencia, where you’ll be treated to
colorful folk dancing, lively musical performances, vendors hawking a variety of
beautiful native crafts, and, of course, great people-watching! Merida’s main
boulevard, Paseo Montejo, is home to many impressive and elaborately trimmed
European-style mansions (of French, Italian and Spanish-Moorish design).
Merida has several museums worth
seeing, namely the Museum of Popular Art where fine examples of Yucatecan art
are exhibited; the Canton Place (also known as the Museum of Anthropology &
History); and the Home Museum of Instruments, which displays original musical
instruments of the pre-Hispanic era along with popular present-day instruments.
Your sightseeing should include the Cathedral, a stately twin-towered church
located east of the plaza, the Casa de Montejo and the Government Palace, all of
which have historical and architectural significance. The Monument to the Flag
is a large semi-circle made of rose-colored stone, which depicts the history of
Mexico.
 Many people are attracted to
Merida because of its easy accessibility to the famous Mayan ruins, such as
Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Dzibilchaltun, which are around 80 miles east of Merida.
Also nearby are the Balankanchin Caves, where an altar containing carved stone
offerings was left by the Mayans 800 years ago. Others like to explore, or stay
at, the old and beautiful haciendas of Yucatan, many of which have been
beautifully refurbished and converted into deluxe hotels or restaurants. Both
the ruins and the haciendas are separate worlds, each worthy of exploration in
their own right. Yucatan is dotted with plantation-style haciendas built in the
henequen heyday. The 17th century Hacienda Yaxcopoil, on the road to Uxmal, has
been conserved and converted into a museum.
The Spaniards erected a wall
around the city to protect it from frequent pirate attacks. It had only eight
entrances, through large Spanish arches. Three of these are still standing.
Early in the 20th century, Merida attracted a large number of Syrian and
Lebanese settlers, whose influence is seen in the architecture and particularly
in the cuisine offered at many restaurants. In general, the regional cuisine
differs vastly from the rest of Mexico, relying heavily on marinated meats,
especially pork. Turkey is another dietary staple, as is Yucatan’s delicious
twist on the humble tortilla, the panucho, a small fried corn tortilla stuffed
with refried beans. Yucatecan dishes tend to incorporate less chile than other
Mexican regional fare, preferring instead to serve it on the side, which is
fortunate because the area’s chile of choice is the deadly chile habanero, a
small bright green or yellow chile found only in the Yucatan Peninsula. It was
purportedly imported centuries ago from Java.
 Merida’s weather is hot and steamy
in the summer until predictable afternoon rains lead to comfortable evenings.
It’s cooler in the winter, with occasional nighttime winds making it chilly
enough for a sweater. There are many ecotours and other adventurous activities
and side trips in the area, including cave exploration and scuba diving. A
little more than an hour from Merida is the village of Becal, where local women
weave jipi (pronounced heap-ee) hats and other items from the straw of the jipi
palm plant. They work in underground caves, where the moisture keeps the straw
flexible, preventing it from breaking when knotted or twisted. And an hour and a
half west of Merida (57 miles) is the Gulf coast fishing village of Celestun,
site of a wildlife preserve where colonies of pink flamingos spend the winter
months feeding in the nutrient-rich waters of the area’s estuary. Local
fishermen offer boat rides to see the flamingos and the great number of other
flora and fauna that thrives there. Although the birds are the big draw, this
stretch of coast also has beautiful, soft, white beaches strewn with seashells
and lapped by clear blue water. Flamingo colonies can also be found in the
120,000-acre Rio Lagartos National Park, which is located 137 miles northeast of
Merida.
Highways leading to the
archeological sites are excellent, but it’s easy to leave the driving to the
experts and enjoy the ride with a guide to explain what you’re seeing. The
architecture of these ruins is considered to be among the most magnificent in
the ancient world. Uxmal (58 miles south of Merida) was founded around 600 A.D.,
as was Chichen-Itza (80 miles east of Merida). These are very impressive sights,
so aesthetically beautiful and unique that you’ll never forget them.
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