Destinations
Colima,
Guadalajara,
Guanajuato,
Merida,
Morelia,
Patzcuaro,
San Miguel
de Allande, Uruapan,
Zacatecas
The City of Colima, capital of the
State of Colima, is located only 140 miles south of Guadalajara, about a
two-and-a-half-hour drive; from Colima on to Manzanillo on the Pacific Coast is
another two and a half hours, all on mostly four-lane highways that are part of
the extensive new tollway system being built in Mexico.
 Colima is a medium-sized city with
a population of approximately 160,000 people, and with an altitude of about
1,500 feet above sea level (substantially less than that of Guadalajara at 5,000
feet plus), it’s high enough for summer temperatures to remain much more
moderate than in the nearby coastal towns. With its pleasant tree-lined streets
and many comfortable residential areas, it’s quite lovely, yet has not become a
haven for retirees as the Guadalajara/Lake Chapala areas have, although some
foreigners do reside here. The city has a full range of tourist services with
many pleasant hotels and several excellent restaurants. The University of Colima
has a very good folkloric ballet that is definitely worth catching.
 About half-way to Colima from
Guadalajara, one spots two large mountains in the distance, the first of which
is Volcan Nevado de Colima (the Snowpeak Colima Volcano). At well over
14,000 feet high and Mexico’s seventh highest peak, it has long been extinct.
However, as you approach it and skirt it to the east, another mountain comes
into view from behind it, and you’ll notice a wisp of smoke or steam arising
from its peak. This is the Volcan de Fuego de Colima (the Fiery Colima
Volcano), a still-active volcano which reaches to more than 13,000 feet. It
began erupting millions of years ago, and continues its periodical eruptions
today. Since the arrival of the Spaniards, there have been about 30 eruptions
from this peak, making it one of the most active volcanoes in the world,
continuously observed by vulcanologists. The word colima means “god of
fire who rules,” after which the volcanoes, the city and the state are all
named.
Surrounded by coconut groves,
especially on its Pacific side, means that “You don’t take coconuts to Colima,”
as the natives will jokingly tell you, but you can purchase every coconut
product imaginable in these parts. With its towering volcanoes and slower pace
of life, Colima is both an exciting and laid-back place to visit.
“The Pearl of the West” is the
affectionate name Tapatios (local residents) have dubbed Mexico’s second
largest city (only Mexico City is larger), which is 450 years old and has five
million inhabitants. Located in the west-central part of the country in the
State of Jalisco (it’s the state capital), this serenely beautiful and stately
colonial city sits on a high plateau more than 5,000 feet above sea level.
Blessed with an ideal climate and a location convenient to much of what Mexico
has to offer, the city and its surroundings has attracted many American and
Canadian expatriates. It’s a city of parks and fountains, of monuments and
rose-lined boulevards, a city alive with color, especially in the flowers that
bloom nearly year-round. Purple jacaranda trees bloom in the spring; the
ethereal trees line many streets and are an impressive sight; and the flaming
Flor de Noche Buena (poinsettias) bloom in December, giving the city a
Christmas flavor!
 Guadalajara was founded in 1542 by
the Spanish conquistador Nuno de Guzman, and, although modern, it still
retains much of its colonial charm with its many 17th
century buildings in the old downtown area; NAFTA’s influence has brought
many international companies here, due both to the quality of life the city
offers as well as its strategic location. At first glance, Guadalajara appears
to avoid the obvious tourist trappings of some other Mexican cities—which may
explain its charm. It’s a subtle city, not noted for its nightlife, but there’s
still a lot to see and do.
Guadalajara is a well-connected
city, to say the least—only a three-hour drive to the Pacific beach cities of
Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo on new toll roads. And from here you can easily
connect to other colonial cities, most within comfortable driving distances and
some even by air. And with the opening of the Guadalajara-Mexico City
superhighway, it’s only four hours to Mexico City, linking these two major
cities as never before. And this connectedness is reflected in Guadalajara’s
culture and sophistication, with its tree-lined boulevards, beautiful city
parks, great hotels, plazas, shopping centers, museums, restaurants, art
centers, its Degollado Theater (home of the Jalisco Philharmonic Orchestra),
lovely old churches, universities and huge exciting markets, all of which will
fill your days with the unforgettable sights and sounds of Mexico, and of course
on a grander scale than any of the smaller colonial cities.
The seven-block-long Plaza Tapatia
and the cathedral dominate the downtown area. The plaza is a stroller’s paradise
of colonial architecture, fountains, ancient and modern sculpture, shops and a
museum. At the west end of the plaza is the “first block” of the city, which
includes not only the spot where the city was established in the 16th century,
but the cathedral and four plazas extending to form a cross. Most of
Guadalajara’s great colonial buildings face these plazas. In front of the
cathedral is Plaza Guadalajara, which is packed with laurel trees and boasts a
fountain with the Jalisco state seal. The southern arm of the cross is the Plaza
de Armas, with its Victorian kiosk of lacy wrought iron, where locals gather for
band concerts on Thursday and Sunday evenings. The eastern park behind the
cathedral is the Plaza de la Liberacion, dedicated to the heroes of Mexican
independence; in its center is a statue of Padre Hidalgo, the father of the
independence movement. At both ends are beautiful fountains, and the entire
plaza is bordered with flowers. To the north is the Plaza de la Rotonda, whose
center contains a circular group of columns set in a garden honoring illustrious
Jaliscans. A series of life-size statues in bronze skirt the park.
 The name Guadalajara comes from
the Arabic or Moorish word Wad-al-jidara, which means “river of stones.”
Tapatios are friendly and proud of their beautiful city, eager to introduce
visitors to its beauty and charm. It boasts the nearby handicraft towns of
Tlaquepaque and Tonala, where some of the leading artisans of Mexico ply their
trades, producing some of the most beautiful and unique works found anywhere.
The city has long been a haven for many North American retirees; and thousands
more Americans and Canadians reside in the nearby towns of Chapala and Ajijic on
the shores of Mexico’s largest inland body of water, Lake Chapala, which is only
45 minutes’ drive from the city and well worth a visit. A visit to nearby
tequila plantations and distilleries also makes a great side trip. In the town
of Tequila, you can tour the haciendas of leading tequila distillers Casa Cuervo
and Sauza, to see how the national drink is made. Tequila Herradura, another
leading distiller, is based in the town of Amatitlan, between Guadalajara and
Tequila, and their hacienda, San Jose del Refugio, offers guided tours, On
Saturdays, you can take a day-long train tour to Tequila that includes
tequila-tasting on board, mariachi music, folkloric dancing and a typical
regional meal. Operated by the Guadalajara Chamber of Commerce, the Tequila
Express departs from the train station at 11 AM and returns about 8 PM.
Guadalajara can easily be the
focal point for an entire Mexican vacation. It’s ideal for those who want to get
off the usual tourist track, yet expect good hotels and comfortable living.
Capital of the State of Guanajuato,
the City of Guanajuato (population about 55,000) is located in the heart of the
Mexican republic. Its name means “mountainous place for frogs” in the Tarascan
Indian language. Nestled in a narrow canyon between two huge mountains,
Guanajuato is a singular and perfectly preserved colonial city. Its origins in
Mexico’s central highlands date back as early as 1552 when Spanish explorers
struck silver in the neighboring Sierra Madre mountains; it quickly became the
richest city in Mexico and for centuries Guanajuato flourished as the silver
capital of the world, producing more than a third of the world’s silver by the
turn of the 18th century. The
city’s heritage of wealth is reflected in the elaborate mansions and baroque
churches that give Guanajuato the most purely Spanish/European feeling of all
the Mexican colonial cities. It was declared a national monument by the
government in 1973; all restorations and new construction must conform to the
old style architecture in order to retain its medieval appearance. It was also
named a “World Heritage Zone” in 1988 by the United Nations.
 Most visitors find Guanajuato’s
true charm in the amazing web of winding streets and alleys, called callejones,
that twist through the core of the city. Colonial buildings crowded together and
perch one atop the other, lining the alleyways, their balconies almost touching.
This architectural feature is immortalized in the legend of the Callejon del
Beso (Alley of the Kiss), an alley so narrow that two ill-fated lovers, kept
apart by their families, were still able to kiss each other from their balconies
on opposite sides of the alley! So haphazard are the patterns of these
callejones that the people of Guanajuato have long been practitioners of the
fine art of callejonear, a verb taken from the word callejon which simply means
meandering through the streets with no particular destination in mind. Wear
comfortable walking shoes in order to fully appreciate and admire the beauty of
the city’s colorful buildings made from cantera stone or explore its ancient
subterranean tunnel, originally built to prevent flooding, but currently used as
a kind of medieval-looking bypass as it zig-zags under the city; part of the
tunnel follows the original course of a dry river bed, other parts were added
later to alleviate traffic jams in the city’s narrow streets.
 Though small, the wedge-shaped
plaza called Jardin de la Union is an excellent place to sit and relax while
enjoying band concerts; although Guanajuato doesn’t have a main plaza or square,
in the manner of other Mexican towns, the Jardin is the favored gathering spot.
Shaded by ancient trees, it features a charming old-fashioned bandstand where
concerts are frequently held, and a few bustling sidewalk cafes. In the
evenings, estudiantinas (strolling musicians from the state university) perform
in the surrounding streets. Other pretty plazas include Jardin de la Reforma,
Plaza San Roque and Plazuela San Fernando. Plaza de la Paz, in front of the
basilica, is surrounded by the former mansions of local silver mining magnates.
The city’s rich history is filled
with fabled landmarks, as the city played an important role in Mexico’s War of
Independence—like the Alhondiga de Granaditas, where rebel priest Padre
Hidalgo’s insurrection against Spanish rule had its first major siege in 1810;
it’s now a regional museum. A famous patriot from that battle, a young miner
nick-named El Pipila, is memorialized in a huge hilltop statue and lookout that
offers a magnificent view of the city and its mazelike layout spread out below.
And of course there are the silver mines to see, the most famous of which is La
Valenciana, first excavated in 1558.
If you’re planning to visit
Guanajuato in October or November, make sure you book a hotel room far in
advance, for this is the time of year when the city hosts the Festival
Cervantino, Mexico’s largest cultural event of the year. The centerpiece of the
festival is the performance of the Entremeses, or short theatrical sketches
written by Cervantes. These are a very popular tradition in Guanajuato, and
their unusual outdoor stagings use the city’s own plazas, haciendas, parks and
streets as sets.
The Teatro Juarez (Juarez Theater)
is a magnificent and very ornate building named for Mexico’s most famous
president, Benito Juarez; it’s an interesting mixture of several architectural
styles and is still used for special events. Also of interest are the Templo de
San Diego, a Franciscan church built in 1663, the San Diego Church with its
impressive ornate doorway, the Templo de la Compania de Jesus, the grandest
church in Guanajuato, which was built in the 17th century and has an impressive
dome and pink stone façade. And anyone visiting the city should not miss seeing
La Valenciana, a very beautiful church situated outside of town, with a
hand-carved gold altar styled after a Chinese pagoda. It perches atop the
Valenciana Silver Mine, which is still being mined! Here, one may purchase
fascinating geodes and quartz crystals. The Casa del Conde de la Valenciana
(house of the Count of Valenciana) houses a gallery of Mexican arts and crafts
as well as one of the city’s leading restaurants. Fine food is served in a
lovely colonial setting with a great panoramic view (open for lunch only). To
see what life was like for the wealthy mine owners, visit the Ex-Hacienda de San
Gabriel de la Barrera. The former hacienda of Captain Gabriel de la Barrera, a
descendent of the first Count of Valenciana, was restored and opened as a museum
in 1979. Set amidst magnificent gardens, the mansion is furnished in colonial
antiques and period European furniture and art, and has a private chapel
featuring an ornate gold-covered altar. There’s a lovely outdoor café and wine
bar, as well as a handicrafts shop in the grounds.
 Ten miles west of the city, a huge
monument of Christ, Cristo Rey, crowns a 9,442-foot mountain peak. Visible to
travelers miles before they reach Guanajuato, the statue is 82 feet high and
marks what is said to be the geographical center of Mexico.
Also worth visiting is the 17th
century Museo del Pueblo de
Guanajuato, which is housed in the former mansion of a mining magnate and
features an art collection that ranges from colonial to modern times, including
a powerful mural by Chavez Morado.
Guanajuato is the perfect place to
begin a tour of colonial Mexico. The very essence of colonial living can be
experienced as you stroll through the city’s 15 plazas and numerous cathedrals,
including the Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato, which boasts the oldest piece
of Christian art in Mexico, a gift from Spain’s King Philip II, and has a coral
and gold façade. The Museo Diego Rivera, birthplace of the great muralist Diego
Rivera, displays his work. And the Museo Iconografico Cervantino exhibits
popular art inspired by Cervantes. The Teatro Principal, located next to the
University on Calle Cantarranos, is very popular for all cultural events, and
fine performances can be enjoyed for a very small fee. A definite focal point
for ongoing cultural events, the University of Guanajuato, which many students
still attend, was built by the Jesuits in 1732, and offers special summer
programs that include subjects of interest to outside visitors and locals alike.
Both tourists and natives love to
visit the huge two-story market, which is open daily, where one can find
everything from handmade clothing and crafts to fresh fruits and vegetables. And
not to be forgotten is the Mummy Museum, a very popular tourist attraction
located at the entrance to the Panteon Municipal (Municipal Cemetary). Here, in
glass cases along the wall are displayed about 100 mummified bodies that are
perhaps hundreds of years old; they’re most likely preserved by the dry mountain
air and the mineral salts in the cemetary’s soil. The museum recently decided to
play up its ghoulish side by incorporating some haunted-house-style displays.
And the list goes on! The days you
spend wandering Guanajuato’s cobblestone callejones will take you back in time
to the romance of Mexico’s colonial past more than any other place, but at an
altitude of 6,700 feet, average temperatures hover in the mid-60s, making
sweaters or jackets necessary in the evenings. Also, if you go during the late
summer or early fall (rainy season), rain gear is a must. Mode of dress is
casual.
Built more than 450 years ago on
the site of T’ho, an ancient Mayan city, Merida is the social and economic
center, as well as the capital, of the State of Yucatan. “The White City,” as
it’s often called, probably derives its nickname from the white-trimmed facades
of its Spanish colonial architecture, although the name could have easily
derived from the traditional local dress—the pleated white guayabera shirt worn
by men, and the lacy white huipil dress worn by women. This fascinating inland
city of approximately 700,000 people is full of charm, with its colorful
calandrias (horse-drawn carriages), which take you through the narrow
streets—all numbered, no names!—for a leisurely view of many interesting places
that you’ll want to explore more fully at a later time.
 Founded in 1542 by Francisco de
Montejo, Merida and all of the Yucatan remained virtually isolated until
mid-20th century. Trade and commerce, based on the profitable henequen (or
sisal) industry, were long directed toward the U.S., Cuba and Europe. Wealthy
Yucatecos were far more likely to visit Havana or Paris than Mexico City. Rope
products are still produced here from the fiber of the ubiquitous henequen
plant, but the advent of petroleum-derived nylon effectively wiped out the sisal
industry in Yucatan. Sisal, a tiny coastal village, gave its name to the fiber
used to make everything from floor mats and hammocks to industrial cording and
sacks.
You’ll be treated warmly by the
friendly, handsome people of Merida, who often bear the features of their long
Mayan ancestry, easily recognizable by their almond-shaped eyes, high cheek
bones and very straight hair. Be sure to spend time in the tree-shaded Zocalo
(main square), called the Plaza de la Independencia, where you’ll be treated to
colorful folk dancing, lively musical performances, vendors hawking a variety of
beautiful native crafts, and, of course, great people-watching! Merida’s main
boulevard, Paseo Montejo, is home to many impressive and elaborately trimmed
European-style mansions (of French, Italian and Spanish-Moorish design).
Merida has several museums worth
seeing, namely the Museum of Popular Art where fine examples of Yucatecan art
are exhibited; the Canton Place (also known as the Museum of Anthropology &
History); and the Home Museum of Instruments, which displays original musical
instruments of the pre-Hispanic era along with popular present-day instruments.
Your sightseeing should include the Cathedral, a stately twin-towered church
located east of the plaza, the Casa de Montejo and the Government Palace, all of
which have historical and architectural significance. The Monument to the Flag
is a large semi-circle made of rose-colored stone, which depicts the history of
Mexico.
 Many people are attracted to
Merida because of its easy accessibility to the famous Mayan ruins, such as
Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Dzibilchaltun, which are around 80 miles east of Merida.
Also nearby are the Balankanchin Caves, where an altar containing carved stone
offerings was left by the Mayans 800 years ago. Others like to explore, or stay
at, the old and beautiful haciendas of Yucatan, many of which have been
beautifully refurbished and converted into deluxe hotels or restaurants. Both
the ruins and the haciendas are separate worlds, each worthy of exploration in
their own right. Yucatan is dotted with plantation-style haciendas built in the
henequen heyday. The 17th century Hacienda Yaxcopoil, on the road to Uxmal, has
been conserved and converted into a museum.
The Spaniards erected a wall
around the city to protect it from frequent pirate attacks. It had only eight
entrances, through large Spanish arches. Three of these are still standing.
Early in the 20th century, Merida attracted a large number of Syrian and
Lebanese settlers, whose influence is seen in the architecture and particularly
in the cuisine offered at many restaurants. In general, the regional cuisine
differs vastly from the rest of Mexico, relying heavily on marinated meats,
especially pork. Turkey is another dietary staple, as is Yucatan’s delicious
twist on the humble tortilla, the panucho, a small fried corn tortilla stuffed
with refried beans. Yucatecan dishes tend to incorporate less chile than other
Mexican regional fare, preferring instead to serve it on the side, which is
fortunate because the area’s chile of choice is the deadly chile habanero, a
small bright green or yellow chile found only in the Yucatan Peninsula. It was
purportedly imported centuries ago from Java.
 Merida’s weather is hot and steamy
in the summer until predictable afternoon rains lead to comfortable evenings.
It’s cooler in the winter, with occasional nighttime winds making it chilly
enough for a sweater. There are many ecotours and other adventurous activities
and side trips in the area, including cave exploration and scuba diving. A
little more than an hour from Merida is the village of Becal, where local women
weave jipi (pronounced heap-ee) hats and other items from the straw of the jipi
palm plant. They work in underground caves, where the moisture keeps the straw
flexible, preventing it from breaking when knotted or twisted. And an hour and a
half west of Merida (57 miles) is the Gulf coast fishing village of Celestun,
site of a wildlife preserve where colonies of pink flamingos spend the winter
months feeding in the nutrient-rich waters of the area’s estuary. Local
fishermen offer boat rides to see the flamingos and the great number of other
flora and fauna that thrives there. Although the birds are the big draw, this
stretch of coast also has beautiful, soft, white beaches strewn with seashells
and lapped by clear blue water. Flamingo colonies can also be found in the
120,000-acre Rio Lagartos National Park, which is located 137 miles northeast of
Merida.
Highways leading to the
archeological sites are excellent, but it’s easy to leave the driving to the
experts and enjoy the ride with a guide to explain what you’re seeing. The
architecture of these ruins is considered to be among the most magnificent in
the ancient world. Uxmal (58 miles south of Merida) was founded around 600 A.D.,
as was Chichen-Itza (80 miles east of Merida). These are very impressive sights,
so aesthetically beautiful and unique that you’ll never forget them.
A stately city that reflects a
visible pride in its long and illustrious heritage, Morelia is the capital of
the State of Michoacan—an area considered by many Mexicans as their most scenic
state—and the aristrocrat of colonial cities. A drive to Morelia will take you
through landscapes of mountain forest, past rivers and lakes, under towering
volcanoes and through rustic villages. Enter the city itself and you encounter
an impressive place of pink stone buildings, an ancient Spanish aqueduct that
winds into the city, sculpted gardens and graceful arcades and colonnades that
front on its lovely main square, Plaza de los Martires (Plaza of the
Martyrs), which is the focal point of town life and a good place to start
sightseeing. It’s flanked on one side by the pink-stoned cathedral with its twin
towers 200 feet high. It took more than 200 years to build and is one of the
most beautiful in the country. The most impressive architectural landmark in
Morelia is its massive colonial aqueduct. Built in 1790 to carry water into the
city from nearby springs, it has more than 250 arches, some of them 30 feet
high. It ends at Plaza Villalongin, with its large fountain adorned by
statues of handsome Tarascan women holding aloft baskets of fruits and
vegetables.
 Originally called Valladolid,
after the Spanish city of the same name, the city’s name was changed to Morelia
in honor of a local hero, Jose Maria Morelos, after Mexico’s War of
Independence. History buffs will want to visit his former home, now a museum.
The city was founded in 1541 by Mexico’s first viceroy, Antonio de Mendoza,
whose palace, built in 1544, stands at the city center and is still used as a
hotel! However, the city’s heritage extends far beyond the days of Spanish
conquest, for the region was long the ancestral home of the Tarascan Indians,
who had cultivated the peaceful arts for hundreds of years before the Spaniards
arrived. It is still regarded as one of the richest folk art centers in Mexico,
and traditional Tarascan crafts from neighboring villages can be found
throughout the city. The pottery, wood carving and laquerware made by the local
people are highly prized by collectors. In this regard, the State Museum in
Morelia is a must-see, as it houses an excellent collection of archeological
artifacts from the region; it was once the home of emperor Agustin de Iturbide
and includes a complete Morelian pharmacy dating from 1868. The Michoacan Museum
houses a collection of archeological artifacts and art, including Federico
Cantu’s impressive mural of the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse. At Morelos
Norte 485 is the Casa de la Cultura, one of the oldest and most
impressive structures in the city. It contains an interesting Mask Museum with
examples from many regions of Mexico.
 The Orchid Garden at the
Convention Center boasts a collection of 4,000 plants and is open 365 days a
year. The annual State Fair is held in Morelia from April 29 to May 20; one of
its highlights is the organ festival featuring international artists. And as
long as you’re in Michoacan between late November and early March, be sure to
visit the monarch butterfly refuge near Angangueo (near Zitacuaro, about two
hours from Morelia). Every autumn, millions of black-and-orange beauties fly
some 2,200 miles from southern Canada and the northern U.S. to a tiny niche of
mountains in the States of Michoacan and Mexico. Once there, they roost in the
high, cool trees of the fir forest to spend the winter months before heading
north again in the spring. Angang
 One of the most vividly colonial
cities in Mexico, Morelia also provides a gateway to experiences of pre-colonial
culture over a thousand years old. Be prepared to linger when you visit, for the
history and natural beauty of Morelia and the State of Michoacan are hard to
resist.
When visiting Morelia, one should
also plan a trip to the nearby town of Patzcuaro (about an hour’s drive), a
Tarascan Indian name meaning “place of delights” that is situated about three
miles from Lake Patzcuaro, one of the highest lakes in the world (at an
elevation of nearly 7,000 feet), which has an island, Janitzio, in its center;
you can visit the Island of Janitzio by boat; its inhabitants live very much the
way they have lived for centuries. Its quiet mountain beauty has a quality
reminiscent of Japanese watercolors, and the Tarascans still fish the waters of
Lake Patzcuaro using their picturesque and delicate butterfly fishing nets.
 A truly unspoiled colonial town
and very popular with Mexican tourists as well as other North Americans, the
town of Patzcuaro reminds many Americans of Williamsburg, VA, in the tidy,
well-kept authenticity of its centuries-old buildings. Tarascan influence is
very evident here, and can best be experienced during the all-Indian market held
each Friday in the town. The most colorful time to visit, of course, is during
the Christmas and New Year holidays; another popular time to visit Patzcuaro is
during the area’s famous Day of the Dead celebrations on the 1st
and 2nd of November (All Saint’s Day). If you plan on visiting
during these peak times, reservations in advance are strongly suggested.
 The lovely mountainous town is
dotted with quaint colonial architecture and the central part of Patzcuaro
contains the charming Plaza Vasco de Quiroga as well as the bustling Plaza
Gertrudis Bocanegra, two very ample plazas that are fun to explore. From the
perspective of both its history and beautiful surroundings, Patzcuaro is an
important stop on any tour of colonial Mexico.
A colonial center for the arts,
located in the State of Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende is a cosmopolitan town
in a colonial setting, so strikingly lovely in its architecture that it’s been
designated a national monument. Of all Mexico’s colonial cities, few would
disagree that San Miguel de Allende is one of the prettiest. With its
tree-shaded plaza, dominated by an unusual neo-Gothic church, it’s a touch of
the Left Bank. And its many beautifully restored colonial homes house delightful
small hotels, excellent little restaurants and fine shops. In addition to the
visitors who come to enjoy the town’s beauty, climate and colorful fiestas,
students of all ages come to study art, painting, weaving, sculpting,
photography and Spanish. All this makes the city a fascinating place to spend a
few hours, a few days or a few weeks. There is no other place in Mexico quite
like it!
 Let your first view of this placid
highlands town be from the hilltop of El Mirador, where a panorama of
shimmering church domes surrounded by pastel-painted buildings meets the eye—all
of it framed against the backdrop of the surrounding Sierra Madre mountains. On
entering the town itself, head for the Plaza Allende, the town’s main
square, to soak up the European flavor of its manicured trees, wrought-iron
benches and gilded bandshell. Along the narrow cobblestone streets surrounding
the Plaza are an abundance of cafes, galleries, shops and small hotels that now
occupy the centuries-old buildings. Behind many of the huge wooden doorways that
line these colorful streets can be glimpsed beautiful private homes with
gorgeous interior courtyards graced by fountains and gardens. These hidden
courtyards are part of San Miguel’s secret charm, and thankfully many residents
open their homes to tours which take place each Sunday.
 It’s only natural that artists
have long been attracted to San Miguel’s timeless beauty, and the town has
become quite an important artist’s colony in recent years, where a fairly large
community of North American writers and painters live year-round. Cultural
activities flourish and the café scene is lively. There are several excellent
art schools located here, the most notable of which is the Instituto de
Bellas Artes (Institute of Fine Arts); it’s housed in an old convent.
Here are some of San Miguel’s most
fascinating attractions:
-
Jardin Principal
(Main Garden or town square): This is San Miguel’s most popular meeting place;
it’s surrounded by beautiful buildings, some with archways dating back to the
17th century.
-
La Parroquia
(Parrish Church): Originally built in 1683, it has undergone various changes
over the years. Its neogothic façade, built in 1890 by local stone-mason
Zeferino Gutierrez, is the outstanding landmark in the town.
-
Presidencia Municipal
(Mayor’s Office): Built in 1736, it contains a fine painting depicting the
creation of the first city council in independent Mexico, on September 17,
1810.
-
Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez,
“El Nigromante” (National Institute
of Fine Arts): Housed in the ex-convent of the Conceptionist nuns, this
cultural center today is a beautiful place where painting, drawing, sculpture,
music, ballet, and other fine arts are offered.
-
Templo de la Concepcion
(Church of the Conception): Inside the church are masterpieces painted by
artist Rodriguez Juarez.
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Teatro Angela Peralta
(Theater): Inaugurated on May 20, 1873, its opening performance was that of
famed opera singer Angela Peralta.
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Biblioteca Publica
(Public Library): This beautiful colonial building contains Mexico’s
second-largest English library.
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Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
(St. Phillip Neri’s Oratory): Constructed at the beginning of the 17th
century, this church houses paintings by Cabrera as well as beautiful
neoclassic altars.
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Santa Casa de Loreto
(Loreto Chapel): Built in the 18th century, a reproduction of its namesake in
Italy, its façade is baroque.
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Templo de Nuestra Senora
de la Salud (Church of Our
Lady of Health): The construction of this church dates back to the 18th
century, and its façade is churriqueresque in style.
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Plaza Civica
(Civic Plaza): This plaza is used for civic purposes and was built in honor of
General Ignacio Allende y Unzaga.
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Iglesia de San Francisco
(Church of St. Francis): The construction of this beautiful church began in
1779. The façade is churriqueresque in style, and its neoclassic interior
contains paintings depicting the death of St. Francis.
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Casa del Inquisitor
(Inquisitor’s House): A small and beautiful 18th century house (1780) with a
façade that denotes a marked French influence.
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Instituto Allende
(Allende Institute): An impressive stone building built in 1735, it was once
used as a weekend retreat by Count Tomas de la Canal. It is now a language
school of international renown.
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Paseo del Chorro
(The Water Spring): This is the unique park where San Miguel originated. The
spring was discovered in the 16th century and is now a colorful public bathing
area.
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Santuario de Atotonilco
(Sanctuary of Atotonilco): Located only 10 minutes drive from San Miguel, on
the road to Dolores Hidalgo, this extraordinary church has been a place of
pilgrimage since colonial times. It was from here that Father Hidalgo removed
the banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe and used it as the standard for the
insurgent cause against the Spanish. Its surprising interior is a mixture of
Christian and secular themes.
The artistic character of the
town, combined with the provincial atmosphere of everyday Mexican village
life—perhaps best experienced in its markets, plazas, church ceremonies and
seasonal fiestas—give San Miguel de Allende a unique personality among the
colonial cities. Its special magic makes it one of the most popular places to
visit in all of Mexico.
Uruapan
West of Morelia and Patzcuaro lies
the town of Uruapan, which translates roughly as “place where the flowers
bloom.” The name of this exotic town hints at the beautiful and lush vegetation
that surround it. And of course such a lush growing environment produces some of
Mexico’s most delectable produce, such as high quality avocados and other
luscious fruits. It was founded early in the colonial era, after the Aztec
Empire had collapsed and the Spanish sent expeditions to every part of Mexico.
One expedition was headed by the Franciscan friar Juan de San Miguel, who went
into the mountainous region inhabited by the Tarascans and selected a spot he
believed to be the most beautiful in New Spain. In 1532 the settlement of San
Francisco Uruapan was founded. With its cobblestone streets, attractive homes
and buildings and flower-filled plazas, its verdant beauty has fascinated
visitors for years.
 Flowers and agriculture aren’t
Uruapan’s only claim to fame: The craftspeople are renowned for their
hand-painted lacquerware (“lacas”)—wooden trays, chests and gourds of
exquisite and intricate design. Many downtown stores sell hand-spun manta,
the bright colorful cotton seen all over Mexico. Uruapan also has a beautiful
national park, the Parque Nacional Eduardo Ruiz, situated on the
outskirts but only a five-minute drive from the main plaza. Here is the source
of the Cupatizio River, said to be one of the most beautiful in the world. The
130-foot Tzararacua Falls are located downstream, surrounded by thick green
vegetation and sporting an almost perpetual rainbow visible in the mist formed
by the cascading water. Stairs lead down to the bottom of the waterfall, but you
can also descend on horseback.
About 22 miles northwest is the
town of Angahuan, from where one can visit the unique lava field originating
from the 8,400-foot Paricutin Volcano, the only volcano born in modern times,
which first erupted in a cornfield back in 1943, much to the surprise of local
peasants. Over the following eight years, it covered 40 square kilometers with
hot lava, before finally dying. But it destroyed the town of San Juan
Parangaricutiro, and 4,000 people were forced to flee their homes; still visible
is the village’s beautiful 16th
century church spire, built of carved cantera stone, protruding from the
lava bed.
 Short side trips from the city
include the archeological ruins from the Purepecha empire at Tingambato, located
20 minutes from Uruapan on the highway to Patzcuaro, or the guitar-making town
of Paracho, or to buy beautiful hand embroidery and lacework in the town of
Aranza, or incredible hand-carved pillars in Ahuiran, or indigenous woodwork
items in other towns, such as Aranza, Cheran, Pichataro, Charapan, to name just
a few. The town of Zirahuen Lake sports many of the small traditional wooden
houses of Michoacan, called trojes, and is a good place to dine on fresh trout,
white fish and charales, the tiny delicacy of the region.
 The city of Uruapan itself is made
up of three joined plazas—El Jardin Morelos, La Pergola Municipal and El Jardin
de los Martires de Uruapan—and at each end of town there’s a picturesque
colonial church. Its setting amidst lush and beautiful scenery, its world-famous
laquerware crafts, delectable and lush fruits and proximity to the wonders of
nature all combine to make Uruapan a very special place to visit.
This colonial city, almost unknown
as a tourist destination until just a few years ago, is one of Mexico’s highest
(8,000 feet altitude). Built on the riches of local silver mines, it is home to
some of Mexico’s finest colonial buildings, including perhaps the most stunning
and magnificent cathedral in all of Mexico. Spanish conquistadores discovered
the rich lodes of silver in the surrounding mountains and just two years later,
in 1546, the initial settlement was proclaimed a city. The cathedral,
constructed of pink cantera stone and one of the ultimate expressions of
Mexican baroque architecture, was built between 1729 and 1752.
As the capital of the State of
Zacatecas (it lies to the north of Guadalajara and Jalisco), the city sports a
fine university and is surprisingly sophisticated for its size. Tours of the
local silver mines are available or one can simply wander through several
excellent museums, including the Pedro Coronel Museum housed in the San Luis
Gonzaga Jesuit College & Seminary (dating from the 17th
century). Exhibited here is one of the finest art collections in Mexico.
Coronel, a renowned Zacatecan artist, left his large collection of pre-Hispanic
artifacts (mostly from the State of Guerrero), as well as an important
collection of colonial, European, African, Greek and Oriental art, to his home
state. Displayed are marvelous African masks, Chinese and Japanese urns and
screens, a complete set of Goya’s “Disparates,” as well as works by Miro, Dali,
Picasso, Motherwell, Hogarth and Piranisi.
 The elaborate 19th
century Calderon Theater, southwest of the main plaza, is the centerpiece for
most of the city’s cultural events. The Francisco Goitia Museum (he was
Zacatecas’ most famous painter, considered to be the precursor of modern Mexican
art and the most Mexican of Mexican painters) exhibits his works and that of
other well-known Zacatecan artists. The Rafael Coronel Museum is one of the most
exciting in the country, not only because of the unusual nature of its contents,
but for the originality of the displays. Housed in the 16th century San
Francisco church, it’s an exquisite setting for Coronel’s collection of 5,000
Mexican masks and pre-Hispanic pottery. There’s a special hall for a creatively
displayed collection of marionettes from the famous Rosette Aranda Theater,
which once traveled throughout the country and was its main source of
entertainment.
 Side trips include to the Convent
of Guadalupe (four miles), and to Chicomostoc , an imposing fortress-like
pre-Hispanic ceremonial center set on a hill some 30 miles south of the city.
And 30 miles west is Jerez, a beautifully preserved colonial city founded in
1536. The horseshoe-shaped Hinojosa Theater, built seven years after the
assassination of Abraham Lincoln, is a replica of Washington, D.C.’s Ford
Theater. Jerez is the home of one of Mexico’s most distinguished poets, Ramon
Lopez Velarde.
Perhaps part of Zacatecas’ appeal
is its relative lack of tourists, which makes it a wonderful place to explore at
your leisure.
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